mattmayadventure: Abel Tasman

In 1642 Abel Tasman, a Dutch explorer with the Dutch East Indies Company, became the first European explorer to set eyes on New Zealand. After a trip up most of the west coast of the South Island searching for a suitable bay for safe harbour, He and his crew came ashore in what is now known as Abel Tasman National Park. The area, he recalled in his memoirs, was beautiful … green with golden beaches and mountains rising from the shores. The people, on the other hand, were written about in a much less positive light. In fairness, this was due to four of Tasman’s crewmen being murdered by the locals while anchored in Golden Bay – it was originally named Murderers’ Bay by Tasman for obvious reasons. Luckily, on our first journey to the area, May and I had much better luck than Tasman and his men had around 367 years ago. In fact, our trip was nothing short of perfect.

We arrived the day after ending work for 2009 in a nearby city called Nelson. It’s an artsy town and, on a relative basis for New Zealand, one with lots of history and charm. We arrived on a Saturday morning and went straight away to the famed market that occurs in the city center. There we picked up some last minute Christmas gifts and what turned out to be some great provisions for our upcoming tramp through Abel Tasman – a foot of venison salami and some great peanut butter. Each of these items is great for tramping, and paired with a hard cheese (aged cheddar, for example) and pita bread (again, ease of packing), makes for a hearty snack during a day of hiking. After some more provisioning, we headed to Marahau, which is the gateway town to the Abel Tasman National Park. A must there was getting in our last non-freeze-dried dinner for several nights and, of course, a glass or two of wine. We also explored the Marahau tidal flats, a massive expanse of the gold sand sea bed that is exposed during low tide. May found some starfish (there were hundreds), and I took a dip.

View of the park from our first night's accomodation

Marahau tidal flats

Sampling of the starfish

Narrative:

The following morning we began the first day of our three-and-a-half-day tramp along the Coastal Track. Along the way, we spent nights backcountry camping at Torrent Bay, Waiharakeke Bay, and Whariwharangi Bay. The actual trip through the park is best recounted with pictures, but in short, the walk is, by New Zealand standards, easy, and is spotted with golden beaches formed by erosion of the local granite, with manuka and palm forests, and with mountains/hills that rise gradually from the sea. As opposed to steep mountain passes, the trail “saddles” hillsides and there is ample opportunity to kickback during the trek on any number of great beaches (many of which you can have largely to yourself).

A view north, including Anchorage then Torrent Bay:

Falls River bridge crossing

Crossing at Onetahuti (near low tide)

Big fern-tree

Beach hike shot

Cheeky weka at Whariwhangi campground

View from Gibbs Hill - last day

After the hike, we boarded the Aqua Taxi and Totaranui and headed back to Marahau. At our lodging at the Abel Tasman Marahau Lodge, we enjoyed a shower and 45 minutes in the hot tub before heading out for some celebratory beers and wine and a nice meal at Hooked on Marahau. The monkfish and seafood pasta entrees beat the hell out of the freeze-dried meals that we had each night and some afternoons.

On our final day at AT, May and I hired a double kayak. Again, the venture is best recounted with pictures, but it can be summed up as a truly awesome experience for avid or beginner kayakers. The bays and islands of the area make the trip simple and the makeup of the coastline affords several coves and beaches that can be explored in relative privacy; that is, if you don’t mind sharing the spaces with seals that stink from both ends.

Rock on Adelle Island

Way up the coastline

Beach stop with a view of Adelle Island

Kayaking action

Workhorse

On the bus ride back to Nelson, May and I recounted our “top five”, a custom that our friend Jody likes to do after a day out doing things. In no particular order, May counted out her top five: a private beach on Adelle Island where we had lunch while kayaking; Te Pukatea Bay near Anchorage and where we spent a couple of hours before heading to Torrent Bay for our first night of camping; kayaking alongside a seal; spotting penguins; and Cascade Falls, which was a short trek from the Coastal Track on adjoining trail. Without doubling up on May’s favorites, I separately counted the following as my top five: peanut butter, NZ cheddar cheese and venison salami; a tidal flat crossing between Anchorage and Torrent Bay; the Marahau tidal flat; Manuka forests; and finding a rocky cove with hundreds of shags. Picture highlights below: